Hampi - A monochromatic viewpoint - Part I

Hampi, the place that has fascinated me time and again and each time I visit Hampi. A part of me stays back over there amidst the magnificent ruins that seem to have a new story for me each visit. Their silent whispers somehow find their way to my heart and their charm and beauty have me intoxicated. Each visit I bring back a part of Hampi also with me, in form of memories and images, but somehow to this day have still not got the feeling I am doing justice to the place that exudes magic from every rock, stone and pebble.

However here is a small attempt to showcase all I can in just monochromes. I am partial to monochromes and kind of addicted to them too and I guess by now it is really obvious.

So here goes my expression and a humble request to all of you to view all the 3 parts of this rather lengthy (but interesting) blog, which again I still feel does not do enough justice to the magic called Hampi. The one place to which I've an unending infatuation.

The magnificent Virupaksha temple as seen from the Matanga Hill, decorated with the low hanging clouds and the skeletons of the stalls lining the sides of the pathway. On a monsoon day, the sight is even more pretty with a recipe of cool breeze atop the Matanga hill almost lulling you into a dreamy state as the clouds shield you from the sun and the birds and macaques keep company as you stare towards the temple standing stoically with all its glory almost intact.

A side entrance to the Pattabhirama Temple. One of the beautiful temple that is closer to Kamlapur. A silent spectator to the many footfalls over the years as generations have come and gone but this beautiful structure still stands on, though it looks like time has taken a bite out of this decorative tower.

The temple tower over the entrance to Vittala temple with designs so detailed and intricate that even with all the damages to the structure it still stands gloriously as an incredible example of perfection  in imperfection.

Possibly one of the most photographed trees ever, the Firangipani tree in the courtyard of the Vittala temple, over a century old and still so young, adorned with a different look in different seasons and a haven for the plum headed parakeets that noisily play around the branches. Close your eyes and just run your hands in the twisted and turned trunk of the tree and the kind of peace that overcomes you will be magical. It almost feels like all your stress is sucked away and only a sense on calm remains.

The legendary stone chariot in the Vittala temple premises, originally a shrine to Garuda and now the most sought after tourist attraction. The elephants in front of the chariot having now graciously replaced the horses that were once there as the chariot pullers. The dome ( which was seen during the 1800s) on the chariot now missing indicating the effect of time over the centuries.

The monolithic four handed Sasvekalu (mustard) Ganesha near the base of the Hemakuta hill sitting tall and is the first to welcome us before we make our way to the other monuments, in the most adorable way, with the snake around his belly. With vandalism taking a toll on the left hand, which has subsequently been reconstructed to give the whole and still a magnificent  look.

In the medley of temples and architectures to visit in Hampi, the underground Siva temple somehow seemed to be the most silent of all to me. It is is beautiful and mysterious no doubt. Why is it underground and has it always been like this. This temple also requires a certain amount of courage to get into. Being underground and almost always having water on its flooring which is supposed to be coming in from the Tungabhadra , bringing along with a few snakes to join in the party, that and with the amazing bats now making it a home. The smell and the overall effect can be a bit discouraging. But do take a look in one of the dryer seasons when the water level is lower and it is curiously fascinating.  Like I've mentioned this always seemed to be the most silent of all structures because I've not heard it talk to me yet. But hoping one day I'll be able to hear what it has to say.

This fascinating structure that needs no introduction...The elephant stable with 11 enclosures and incredible Indo Islamic architecture has always intrigued me. The small openings near the center 3 stables have staircases that lead to the top. I've always wanted to check it out , but of course it is locked and the squirrels now have a very secure home there and I would not be lying if I said I was a bit jealous that they could explore this amazing structure more than me.

The coolest structure in more ways than one in the Zenena enclosure, the place for the royal ladies to relax and enjoy the cool breeze even in the hottest of the days, the architectural marvel, the Lotus Mahal.

It is impossible to look in any direction in Hampi without a piece of art staring right back at you. Every rock is a treasure and has some magic or other hidden in it. The other wonderful part is when you just sit back on a rock late in the evening and feel the warmth of the sun soaked boulder seeping into every part of you, a sigh escapes inadvertently when the soothing warmth drains all your stress away. The rocks are indeed healing..

Signing off on part 1 of this monochromatic journey to Hampi with Bhima returning back after many battles holding the Saugandhika flower for Draupadi. Though not as popular as the other structures, the Bhima's gateway is a classic example of the military architecture of the Vijaynagar empire and yet there is a softness about the whole structure when you see Bhima the strongest of the Pandavas showing his softer side with this statue of him holding the flower for his wife.

Please follow part 2 of this journey here.

Photographs and work by Tharangini is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License

Hampi - A monochromatic viewpoint - Part II

The specialty of the architecture in Hampi is obviously in the intricacy with which the stories are woven into these rocks. To take a rock and give it life, fill it with stories and all so different from each other is no mean task specially when it is all done holding a chisel and a hammer. The intricacies are what that speak volumes, touches the soul and gets us addicted.

These pillars in the Achutraya temple complex bear witness to not only the expert craftsmanship but also to the excellent architecture as they support the roof which sport a detailed rain water draining system. Each pillar is made to the same height, same precision and same excellence. The pillars are the embodiment of harmony in creativity and salute to the great artisans whose efforts are embedded in every groove and etching of these pillars.

This beautiful piece adorns the entrance to the Krishna temple and is over 20ft in height, the symmetry and the grace that exudes from this piece is mesmerizing. As the gaze follows up to the top and meets the ceiling a couple of entwined serpents greet us  as they watch us from the top.

Hampi is a haven for Elephants. They are everywhere, with various decorations all decked up and ready. This pair are again in the Krishna temple and seemed to be in a great hurry to get somewhere. The flow of the shape is immensely soothing. The grains in the semi rough rocks still vibrate an energy that can be felt if you gently run you hands over these magnificent beasts that guard the side entrance. They feel alive and maybe just waiting for the right person to recognize them for who they are.

Intimidating, imposing and oozing aggression, this familiar icon of Hampi, the Lakshmi Narasimha statue in Hampi, once mistaken as Ugra Narasimha needs no introduction. Sadly vandalized extensively and now in a protected enclosure still manages to impress beyond doubt and installs a sense of awe about the grandeur of the past.

I wonder who were the super humans who watched over the city from the tiny shelters that sprouted from vantage points in seemingly inaccessible points over delicately balancing rocks.

She posed coyly greeting the visitors as she had done for over centuries, standing tirelessly. Some admired her, some ignored her, while some thought it was fun to chip out bits and pieces of her. Yet she stood there silently and gracefully watching generations and generations pass by.

Legs of a lion, body of a horse, tail of a cow and a trunk of an elephant, this mythical creature called Yali is seen in plenty around the temple complexes. They are various other combinations of animals that are a part of Yali.

The land of dreams, faiths and beliefs... not sure how this tradition originated. Each little structure is a prayer, a dream to build a house, a mansion or a building. Though how many actually went to build houses after stacking the tiny stones and bricks here is not known it is not uncommon to see these dreams coming up everywhere.

Another curious and interesting example atop a temple dome, interesting headgear, standing proud with a I mean business look and guessing it is Rama, Sita and Lakshmana it has a magnetic attraction to it.

Do these legs belong to a dancer, a goddess, any avatar? All that remains are the bits and pieces, yet the gentleness of the shape as it flows down triggers many a thought as imagination takes over to fill in the blanks and allow the shape to form.

And another one from what I understand it might be a demon from the canines that stick out, but the rest of it is again totally up to the imagination.

The restored shopping complex area in the famed sule bazaar outside the Achutraya temple is geometrically perfect. With the shadows creating a synchronous design, it is really a wonder as to how they have thought of everything to perfection. Though I imagine for them all this was just another day of work in their life.

Signing off on part 2 with this detailing in the hand of the Sasvakalu Ganesha. Just the simple gesture of holding the tusk carved to perfection in the monolithic rock with no room for trial and error as even the tiniest of mistake could have lead to a colossal rework of the entire sculpture.

Please follow part 3 of this journey here.

Photographs and work by Tharangini is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License

Hampi - A monochromatic viewpoint - Part III

So many rocks and so many structures, but what about the life they hold, support and help thrive and grow?  Though there are plenty, just shared a few here for the one reason that these lifeforms in monochrome will not do justice to their colorful selves and also of course with 3 parts this blog is just about long enough, of which I am very aware.. :)

The family sat on the top most available rock in the area, looking down at us curiously. Serving as the vantage point, it was comfortable and spacious enough for an entire troop. All the Langurs on this rock were mothers with their young.

Another smaller family of macaques sat on a different rock soaking in the warmth of the rock lazily while the younger ones were up to their own mischief, exploring the terrain. With hardly any predators around these families are quite comfortable and thriving here and it is not uncommon to see large families moving around here and there.

The bird life is incredible as well, but of course not all birds take on kindly to monochrome and I hope these Francolins do not mind me draining out their color in this image.

Bhima's gateway was being guarded by multi legged giant millipede. It was the breeding season and the young ones were just entering into this world in a swarm and there were swarms everywhere oozing out their nests. It was easy to miss them when they just look like red patches on the mud. Only when you look closer and see them swirling around, you realize they are more then just a patch on the ground.

And here are the swarms...

and another huddle ...

And who can leave out this king from the blog, the great Indian Eagle owl, the ruler of the canal, the silent hunter of the night, the noiseless flight master. I could not help myself in pulling out the brilliant orange eyes from the monochrome. They are hypnotizing after all..need I say more?

With that ending this 3 part blog on Hampi and a great big thanks to all of you who have managed to stay through it. For all those of you who have visited Hampi and know the ocean of mysteries, art and fascination it holds, you'll definitely know that neither 3 nor 30 nor 300 blogs can do justice to this place, but here is hoping one day I can bring in some of the lesser known aspects about Hampi also to you. Thank you.

Photographs and work by Tharangini is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License